Years later in Taos, I see some five-dollar ones on the menu in a trendy restaurant (a blue corn tortilla and $12 a shot tequila kind of a place), so I order some from my seat at the bar. I’ll spare the drawn out comparison I was prepared lay out here and cut right to the point… fish tacos have not changed very much in the last thirty years, and really, why change something too much when it works so well?

I’ve sampled various ones throughout the Southwest and also in California where they are popular in Bakersfield and really popular in San Diego. The locals there are quick to point out that Ensenada, Mexico is the real home of fish tacos, then they will tell you the story behind Rubio’s, a fish taco landmark. In a nutshell, Rubio fell in love with the fish tacos he got from a small stand but couldn’t talk the owner to moving up north to San Diego.

He did, however, get his hands on the technique for making them. Get this… the recipe calls for a soft corn (or flour) tortilla, battered and fried fish, some tangy white sauce, cabbage and salsa. One version I make is pictured above, and has most of the traditional things I like on them, however the delivery is different.

For starters, I make sort of a spicy cabbage slaw using yogurt or mayonnaise for the base. I will even jazz up deli slaw on occasion and it works just fine. The other condiments are chopped green onions, radish slices, cilantro and salsa. A lime wedge for squeezin’ is served on the side. The biggest difference is cooking the fish on the grill. Yes on the grill. Thin fillets of perch, flounder, trout, roughy, tilapia and many others work just fine. I’m looking for a crunchy texture on the fish to go with the crunch of the toppings. Here is how you do that. Build a hot fire and cover a metal tray or fish screen with foil (make sure it has sides so no oil runs off). Preheat the tray for at least 10 minutes. Meanwhile rinse off your fillets, season some flour with chili powder and salt, make an egg/water wash and put some panko (Japanese bread crumbs) onto some wax paper. Sprinkle the fish with flour, dip in the egg wash then coat with panko.

For cooking, add a little oil onto your preheated tray, then add the fish. They should be checked for sticking in about 2 minutes and flipped in 2 more. Once they are 135° internal, they are done. The panko should have developed a golden color and will be very light and crunchy. Slice the fillets into pieces 2 fingers wide. Wrap all this in a warmed corn tortilla or a tortilla wrap (wheat ones are good too), give it a squeeze of lime and enjoy with a cold beer.

Variations - Of course, this can be cooked in a 375° or 400° oven.

Photo Credits - Fish Tacos & Panko Fillets by Author.

What? You have never seen one of these? Okay, sometimes you have to ask. I guess not everyone knows how to deal with one, so they don’t make it into the meat case very often.

Anyway, supermarkets have them to cut down into smaller chuck roasts and club stores like Sam’s have them in the back to sell whole to restaurants. Needless to say, they are a fantastic buy for any barbecuist and can be served sliced or pulled.

Today, I want to share a different technique for preparing chuck roasts. I call it Pepper Beef. I start with a chuck roll and cut it into 3 or 4 large roasts. Using my standard beef seasonings and an indirect set-up in my pit I will barbecue them at 250° for 4 or 5 hours until the internal temperature is around 160°.

Then I transfer into a large roasting pan (the big aluminum ones work fine) or into an electric roaster. Even a Dutch oven or Crock Pot will work for this. All you need is something you can braise in.

Add the braising liquid, cover and braise at 250° until fork tender. I pour off the cooking juices and de-fat them. Then chop the peppers and mix back into the pulled beef along with some cooking juice. I reserve some to serve on the side for dunking the sandwiches in.

The pepper beef braising liquid is mixed at the following ratio for each 10 pounds of meat, more or less.

1 jar of pickled pepperoncini with the juice
1 can of beef broth (chicken broth can be used too)
1 package Lipton onion soup mix
1 package of Good Seasons Italian salad dressing mix.

Depending on the type of vessel you are braising in you may need to add more broth, some water or beer until the level looks good, about 1/2 to 2/3 of the roast covered.

This technique works well with about any combination of seasonings in just about any braising liquid. So experiment with your favorite flavors…..

Photo Credits: Chuck Roll & Pepper Beef by Author

Today I want to talk about leftover barbecue. Hey, if you don’t have leftovers you must not be cookin’ enough …. Okay, even if you don’t have leftovers, I know some of you cook a day ahead, like for a party or to take some Q to work. I like to make extra so I can vacuum seal small amounts for lunches or just a sandwich. I want it to be as close to just-off-the-pit as I can get.

Several months ago I began taking a poll about liquids that folks use when reheating barbecue. Well, I sure learned a few things and got some insight into some popular trends too. Thanks everyone for giving up your secrets….

Below is a summary of the information I collected. Some information is from my cookin’ notes, some from interviews, podcasts, cookbooks or magazine articles as well replies to the poll question I posted on 3 Q sites.

The most popular responses are listed first in each list. Some responses mentioned a pinch of this or a splash of something like Worcestershire sauce. These things were omitted. Likewise I did not break down specific brands of BBQ sauce.

Cooking juice was mentioned often. This generally referred to juices collected in the foil during the resting period, not juices collected if meats were cooked in foil or in pans. De-fatting the juice was not mentioned very often, the exception was de-fatting juices when meats were COOKED in pans or foil.

Coca-Cola & apple juice are used a lot, both straight and as an added ingredient.

When BBQ sauce is used it is usually thinned out with another liquid. Mostly it is to add flavor, but some adjust the thickness to make the pulled or chopped meats “sticky” so they hang on a bun better. Vinegar + water (or apple cider) + cayenne, one of my favorites, was not mentioned as often as I thought it would be.

Sprite was only mentioned once. The reasoning is that the citrus adds some “brightness” to the product. Only about 25% of folks added more dry seasonings or rub after pulling the beef or pork.

PULLED PORK
Apple juice + cooking juice
Apple juice + chicken broth
Coca-Cola
Apple juice + cooking juice + cider vinegar
Coca-Cola + chicken broth
Coca Cola + BBQ sauce
Apple juice
Apple juice + cider vinegar
Dr. Pepper + cooking juice
RC Cola + sauce
Cider vinegar + water
Vinegar + water (or apple cider)
Fruit nectar
Pineapple juice + sauce
Sprite

BRISKET
BBQ sauce + cooking juice
Beef broth + BBQ sauce
BBQ sauce + water
Coca-Cola + cooking juice
Coca-Cola
BBQ sauce + beer
BBQ sauce (1/3) + Beef stock (2/3) + some cooking juice to taste
Beef broth + Au Jus mix
Beef broth + red wine

BBQ BEEF (chuck or clod)
Beef broth + BBQ sauce + cooking juice
Cooking juice + BBQ sauce
BBQ sauce + Coca-Cola
Beef broth + BBQ sauce
Beef broth + Coca-Cola
Beef broth + coffee
BBQ sauce (1/3) + Beef stock (2/3) + some cooking juice to taste
BBQ sauce + Apple juice
Beef broth + BBQ sauce + cider vinegar to taste
Coca-Cola

The origin of barbecue is something else you really can’t put your finger on. Some of the theories make for some great reading, and discussing it with folks in-the-know can lead to some lively conversation. Usually some friendly ribbing and blowing of smoke takes place, but there are some strong opinions out there. Several stories imply that barbecue is a derivative of the West Indian term “barbocoa” and that one sounds good to me. The most obscure theory I have heard is that barbecue (the food or event, not the equipment) was born from an advertisement for a bar, pool hall and pig roasting joint known as the BAR-BEER-CUE-PIG. Okay, now that we’re sort of positive on the origin…..we can at least agree that barbecue is a southern thing, right? And that in barbecue circles, pork is king. Well, except in Texas where beef rules and let’s not forget a section of Kentucky known for barbecued lamb and mutton….

It is documented (finally!) that before the Civil War, southerners ate about 5 times as much pork as beef. Since refrigeration was not real common, pigs were kept “on the hoof”. Slaughter time was a celebration of sorts and southern barbecue grew out of these gatherings. A whole hog barbecue was only small part of the big picture. The main pork by-products of the slaughter however were cured hams and bacon. Before long barbecues became a part of other events ranging from weddings to funerals, church picnics to political rallies. Some of these events were called “pot luck” and attendees would bring a covered dish or some baked goods to enjoy with the barbecued hog.

Different geographical areas developed different styles and flavors of barbecue. Side dishes changed too. It’s impossible to call one style the best. You have your favorites and I have mine but I will agree that southerners are proud of their traditions. In the Carolina’s, pork is chopped and folks generally agree on a vinegar based sauce, but disagree on whether tomato or mustard (or neither) should be added to it. In Tennessee, the tomato based sauce they serve (sometimes on the side) is sweetened with molasses and has a peppery back flavor. On the other hand, some joints specialize in “dry ribs” which get flavor from only a coating of rub. In Kansas City the sauce is on the sweet side too, but it goes on everything, almost to excess. Here, pork is still on the top of the menu but beef brisket and more importantly burnt ends are served. Travel through Alabama and you can find a spicy red sauce for pork and beef. (Also popular in Alabama is a mayonnaise based white sauce for chicken, but I’m trying to stick to pork and beef). The state that can’t agree on any one style is Arkansas. Man…they have a little bit of everything there. The state that can agree on one thing is Texas. They agree that beef is the meat best suited for barbecue. And the #1 cut of beef is…..Yep you guessed it pardner, brisket. Because of it’s size, and Texas is BIG, there are some differences from north to south and east to west. If I had to describe a Texas sauce without stepping on too many toes, I would call it red and thin. Or maybe brown and thin. Sausages should get a mention here as it’s hard to not to get a sausage on the side when you are eating barbecue in Texas.

One variable that influences barbecue flavor is wood. Nobody will agree on one wood for all meats. But why do certain areas swear by certain woods? Because that is what they have on hand; they learned to cook with what grows near by.

So, even though it looks like we may disagree on beef or pork …. chopped, sliced, or pulled…. sauced or plain …. sweet or spicy …. cooked on hickory, oak, mesquite or cherry (just to name a few). I think we can agree that good barbecue is heavy in tradition, flavored with passion and love, cooked to perfection over a low bed of coals, served with pride and enjoyed by friends and family.

Photo Credit - Brisket & Butt by Author

• Nationwide, October is Toilet Tank Repair Month.
• National Chestnut Week is October 8th through the 14th.
• And all day long on October 20th, Wewoka, Oklahoma hosts the Sorghum Day Festival.

The first choice is definitely out. Chestnuts and Sorghum have some possibilities. This is after all, The Cook’s Kitchen. (Editor’s note: Well actually, this is Get Your Grill On, but this is  being published simultaneously on both sites! Today we’re spreading the love on the Welfed Network ) But honestly, neither one was a good fit for this writer, so the search was back on.

The answer was right there all along ….. October is National Chili Month. Man, I can get behind that one. Maybe you read my article in August, Are You a Chilehead????. Well I am, and so is my wife. We are actually Chiliheads too, enjoying both red and green varieties. If you have never tried green chili, it’s a wonderful combination of flavors. Here is my favorite recipe.

My wife developed this recipe 15 years or 20 years ago and over the years, it has undergone several revisions. This chili has won numerous local chili contests and placed either first or second at several regional contests. The recipe is very simple, but still allows for changes to suit to your individual tastes. We like to grind our own pork butt and feel that the key to the success of this chili is roasting the ground pork with the spices on top. Most other recipes just add the spices to the stock pot. Many contest cooks use one or more “dumps” of spices during the cook, but we have found that it is not necessary with this recipe.

Green Chili:

• 5 Lbs. ground pork butt - coarse grind. HINT: Remove most of the fat cap and large pieces of internal fat before grinding to prevent excessive greasiness.
• 1-1/2 Tbsp. salt
• 2 Tbsp. black pepper
• 1 Tbsp. garlic salt
• 1-1/2 Tsp. cumin
• 1-1/2 bunch green onion, finely chopped in food processor
• 1 green bell pepper, finely chopped in food processor
• 16 Tomatillos, pureed in food processor
• 6 roasted (see notes below) Poblanos, peeled and chopped in food processor
• 15 roasted Anaheim peppers, peeled and chopped in food processor
• 4 to 24 fresh Serrano chilies, chopped in food processor. TIP: The Serrano’s control the heat in this chile. With fresh chilies, the heat factor will vary from crop to crop. For less “heat” reduce only the number of Serrano chilies. 6 to 10 chilies would give this chili a “mild” heat rating, 20 to 24 chilies will give this chili an “ooh-wee baby” rating. If in doubt, it’s better to start off with less. It’s better to have great flavor than all heat.
• 3 Tbsp. Chopped garlic
• 64 oz can chicken broth

Roux:

• 2 Cups cold water
• 1 cup flour

Slowly mix the water and flour together to avoid clumping. This will serve as a thickener and will be used toward the end of the cook.

Cooking Method:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place an even layer of ground pork in a roasting pan and sprinkle the top with all of the dry spices. Do not mix the spices into the pork.

Roast (without turning) for about 45 minutes. After roasting, the pork on the edge of the pan will be done, but the center will NOT be completely cooked. The bark that forms on top of the ground pork is key to the flavor of this chili.

Place all of the meat and drippings into a large stockpot and break up with a fork. Add all other ingredients except Roux. Add enough water to desired thickness. Add more water, if needed, as chili cooks. Cook for 2-3 hrs on low or until chilies have achieved desired doneness. Thicken with Roux to the desired consistency. Allow to cook for 15-20 minutes or until flour “taste” has cooked away and blended.

NOTES:

If you like stew-like green chili, an option is to add some cubes of par boiled potatoes and some coarse chopped sweet onions toward the end of the cook.

To roast chilies: Place fresh chilies on BBQ (medium heat) or in oven at 375 degrees and roast until the skin is blistered and charred. Put peppers in a paper grocery bag, keep the top closed to steam the skins loose. Rinse under kitchen faucet to remove skin and seeds. TIP: The chilies can be roasted, steamed and frozen in plastic bags with the skins still on, to keep a full year. Put the amount needed for each batch is a single bag, defrost and rinse away skin and seeds.

This recipe appears on my cookin’ site and in typical how-to fashion, has a lot of photographs. Click Here if you want to check them out.

Photo Credits - Bowl of Green Chili by Author