New York is Barbecue Country?
Here’s my rebuttal to New York Is Barbecue Country, posted recently on Get Your Grill On.
I rank RUB and Daisy May’s with the best of Northeast BBQ, but I think overall, New York City barbecue still has plenty of room for improvement. I’m not sure which NYC barbecue joint ranks #3 on my imaginary Gotham list after RUB and Daisy May’s, but whoever it is would probably rank below at least eight different BBQ joints in the greater Boston area. Ribs are easy to nail down, but I’ve had a hard time getting a good pulled pork sandwich in the city. Good brisket can also be a challenge. I will concede, though, that the wetnaps at New York barbecue joints are the best I have ever received.
Whether you’re comparing populations strictly by city limits or by metro areas, New York is at least 10 times the size of Boston, so there ought to be a lot more really good barbecue joints there. At the very least, there ought to be one joint per million residents that’s cooking with 100% wood and smoke. Right now, I’m not so sure that’s the case.
That Kingsford and Chris Lilly would choose New York for their pulled pork giveaway probably speaks more to the population of New York than its barbecue reputation. As for the Big Apple Block Party and other events, you could argue that their huge successes are possible because New York lacks a barbecue reputation. But that reputation is growing, and growing fast. There is no doubt that over the last five years, the influx of Blue Smoke, Daisy May’s, Dinosaur and RUB has given the city some much-needed barbecue cred. As they continue to experiment and improve, and as their customers become more barbecue savvy, these four joints alone could do as much to enhance NYC’s barbecue reputation over the next five years as they have over the previous five.
I’m looking forward to Rob Richter’s Hill Country BBQ, opening soon near Madison Square Park. I’m hoping it will not only be good, but also be a catalyst for a barbecue version of the creative rivalry that pushed the Beatles, Rolling Stones and other top bands of the 1960s to new heights.
On the competition circuit, New Yorkers still don’t take trophies home as often as my neighbors from Massachusetts, but they’re making great strides.
Beyond restaurants and competitions, I see a strong and growing barbecue community, evidenced by recent gatherings at RUB, Daisy May’s and Willie B’s (Bay Shore on Long Island). These events included hardcore barbecue enthusiasts from the New England Barbecue Society and the Barbecue Brethren. The interest is growing and that can only translate to more barbecue fans, more barbecue knowledge and better barbecue restaurants down the road.
I’m not so sure New York is barbecue country right now, but I know it’s well on its way.
